Showing posts with label Daniel Weiss. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Daniel Weiss. Show all posts

Sunday, April 19, 2026

Art Eyewitness Review: A Nation of Artists, 1776-2026

 

A Nation of Artists, 1776-2026

In collaboration:

The Philadelphia Museum of Art

The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts

The Middleton Family Collection

Reviewed by Ed Voves

The Philadelphia Museum of Art (PMA) and the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts (PAFA) are joining forces to present a complementary exhibition, celebrating the 250th anniversary of American independence from the rule of Great Britain. Over one thousand works of art are displayed in long-term installations which will remain on view through the summer of 2027. 



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
The Great Stair Hall of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, showing  Augustus St. Gaudens' Diana and video highlights of the
 A Nation of Artists exhibition at the PMA

The galleries at both the PMA and PAFA have been refurbished, reorganized and revitalized. Both the post-Civil War American art wing at the PMA and the venerable Frank Furness-designed building at PAFA, closed for renovation during the last two years, are now open! 



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
Gallery view of the A Nation of Artists Exhibition
 at the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts

A Nation of Artists is thus a celebration of these two outstanding institutions, along with the Semiquincentennial of the U.S.A.

And what a celebration! Paintings, sculptures, works of art in every medium command the viewer's attention, even if you've seen them before. Indeed, such are the vast holdings of American art at the PMA and PAFA, that quite a number of works of art have been brought out of storage to take a prominent place in A Nation of Artists. 



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
Charles Burchfield's Hill Top at High Noon, 1925

Charles Burchfield's Hill Top at High Noon is a case in point. Painted in 1925, it entered PAFA's collection three years later. Although Hill Top at High Noon is not graced by the ethereal or numinous elements that are such a marked feature of many of Burchfield's other landscapes, this work has a shimmering grandeur all its own.

 


Searching my memory, I can't recall the last time - or ever - that I saw Hill Top at PAFA. Yet, seeing how Burchfield depicted the billowing clouds rising-up over the summit of the hill evokes a thrilling sensation, not unlike the feeling one has glimpsing the real "thing" in nature.

How glad, too, is the sight of a much more familiar PAFA "icon." This is Winslow Homer's somber, late-career masterpiece, Fox Hunt, painted in 1893. 



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
Winslow Homer's Fox Hunt, 1893

During the hiatus of PAFA's renovation, Fox Hunt went on tour to a number of museums. It featured in the outstanding 2022 Winslow Homer exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the National Gallery in London. And now, bounding through deep snow, the embattled fox has returned to PAFA. Those nasty crows haven't caught up with him yet!



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
Kristen Shepard, President & CEO of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts; Daniel Weiss, Director & CEO of the Philadelphia Museum of Art

The joint displays of American art at the PMA and PAFA are intended to complement each other.  Under the dynamic leadership of Kristen Shepard at PAFA and Daniel Weiss at the PMA, each museum takes a different path to reach the same goal: preserving America's heritage as an investment in its future.

A Nation of Artists at the Philadelphia Museum of Art takes a chronological approach in presenting the story of American creative genius. As mentioned above, the main focus is the long-anticipated unveiling of the galleries devoted to art from the Civil War-era through the 1960's. 



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
Gallery view of A Nation of Artists at the PMA.
 The purple color of the silk dress, c.1866-68, known as magenta,
 was achieved by using a recently invented aniline dye.

Building on the success of the early American wing, opened in 2021, these re-envisioned galleries are devoted to life in the modern-day U.S.A. - as it was lived at the time. These splendid configurations of art, artifacts and furniture mark the culmination of the incredible Core Project redesign of the PMA, which began in 2017. 



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
Gallery view of the A Nation of Artists exhibition
 at the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts

The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts emphasizes a thematic approach which challenges, as well as honors, many of the cherished notions of American freedom, individuality and enterprise. In quite a number of cases, works of art which had been ignored or marginalized in earlier celebrations of "the rising glory of America" are given their due.

There is much to applaud - and to reflect upon - at both museums. Along with masterpiece paintings like Homer's Fox Hunt, there are marvelous examples of American folk art. The carousel horse carved by the greatest master of the genre, Daniel Carl Mueller (1872-1952) is sure to be a crowd-pleasing favorite. In total contrast is the "death cart" used in religious processions by Hispanic-American communities in New Mexico. Both works of art are displayed at the PMA.



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
Gallery view of A Nation of Artists at the PMA. In the foreground is a Carousel Horse, carved by Daniel Mueller, c. 1917





Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
 Death Cart (Carreta de la Muerta), 1880-1900, from New Mexico
 
Gaps in collection building inevitably occur in even the greatest of museums.  Thanks to a previously untapped source of major works of art, A Nation of Artists has almost every "base" covered in its expansive coverage of visual art in the United States.

The mystery masterpieces come from a local, Philadelphia, source, the Middleton Family Collection. If you are a baseball fan, you are more likely to have a clue to the Middleton family identity than otherwise.

John S. Middleton, whose family has been a fixture of the Philadelphia business community for over a century, is the managing partner of the Philadelphia Phillies. For many years, Mr. Middleton has been addressing social ills and issues facing disadvantaged people in the Philadelphia area with generous financial support. His wife, Leigh, is a major advocate for helping the homeless.  



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
John S. Middleton at the press preview for A Nation of Artists

Just as John and Leigh Middleton have quietly worked on behalf of the local community, they have amassed - without fanfare - one of the most impressive collections of American art in private hands. They have now joined with the PMA and PAFA, placing 120 works from their collection on display in both venues for A Nation of Artists.

The first painting purchased by the Middletons was one of the most important portraits in American art history. To use baseball terminology, this "lead-off hitter" of the Middleton Family Collection blasted a "grand-slam" home run.

In 1779, Charles Willson Peale was commissioned by the state government of Pennsylvania to paint a portrait of George Washington. The occasion to be celebrated was both rare and important: an American military victory, the January 1777 Battle of Princeton.



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
Charles Willson Peale's George Washington at Princeton, 1779

Peale's portrait was such a success that a further eight copies were painted. Several were sent overseas with American diplomats who were seeking military and financial aid for the Patriot cause. The copy which the Middletons purchased was one of these, which the emissary to Spain, William Carmichael from Maryland, took with him on his mission to Madrid.

The Middletons' success with George Washington at Princeton should not obscure the magnitude of their subsequent purchases. Thanks to their acute collecting eye and knowledge of history, several holes in the timeline of A Nation of Artists have been filled with major works of art from the Middleton collection. 



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
A gallery view of A Nation of Artists, showing (from left) Edward Hopper's The Lee Shore, 1941, and Joseph Stella's The Swan, 1924

It should come as no surprise that one of these Middleton treasures is a signature painting by Edward Hopper. After Hopper died in 1967, the bulk of his oeuvre was bequeathed by his wife to the Whitney Museum. PAFA had been the first museum to acquire a Hopper oil painting, Apartment Houses (1923). The PMA (which has an impressive trove of Hopper sketches and etchings) recently acquired a late Hopper, Road and Trees (1962). But these are the only Hopper oil paintings owned by either Philadelphia museum.



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
Edward Hopper's The Lee Shore, 1941

Sailing to the rescue is Hopper's The Lee Shore (1941) from the Middleton Family Collection. It is a wonderfully strange painting. 

What seems like a calm day is anything but. Sea and land confront each other at point-blank range. A Queen Anne-style home is perched directly on the shore-line without a hint of sandy beach between its front porch and the water. A schooner looks like it is about to run aground on the shoals in front of the vulnerable dwelling. What happens next? That is left to our imaginations.

Andrew Wyeth is another major artist featured in the Middleton Family Collection. PAFA and the PMA both have important Wyeth paintings in their respective collections. Neither have one of Wyeth's celebrated Helga paintings, which gained such notoriety after Time Magazine did a cover story in 1986 about the series.



  Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
Andrew Wyeth's, Crown of Flowers,1974

Crown of Flowers (1974) is a brilliant painting, in its own right, and a fitting exemplar of the nearly three hundred works in the Helga series.

I could continue to comment on "show-stoppers" at A Nation of Artists. Follow-up posts in Art Eyewitness will indeed examine in detail both the PAFA and the PMA presentations. But I want to reflect on the significance of the title, A Nation of Artists, and mention a contemporary African-American artist whose works are currently on view elsewhere at the PMA.

In 1782, Benjamin Franklin, then engaged in negotiating the end of the Revolutionary War, wrote an essay for people in Europe who were considering a move to the newly-independent United States.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2018) 
Joseph Siffred Duplessis' Benjamin Franklin,1778. This portrait appeared in the Visitors to Versailles exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum, 2018.

Among those looking for a fresh start in the new nation were motivated idealists, honorable in their intentions. Others were opportunists and adventurers. Some were artists, with a foot in each camp, seeking patronage and commissions. 

Franklin advised them all:

The Truth is, that though there are in that Country few People so miserable as the Poor of Europe, there are also very few that in Europe would be called rich; it is rather a general happy Mediocrity that prevails. There are few great Proprietors of the Soil, and few Tenants; most People cultivate their own Lands, or follow some Handicraft or Merchandise; very few rich enough to live idly upon their Rents or Incomes, or to pay the high Prices given in Europe for Paintings, Statues, Architecture, and the other Works of Art, that are more curious than useful. 

Franklin went on to note that a number of established American artists - "the natural Geniuses, that have arisen in America with such Talents" - had departed to seek opportunity in Europe. He was no doubt thinking of Benjamin West and John Singleton Copley.

What then would Dr. Franklin say about A Nation of Artists, if he could return to his adopted city for a visit?

Judging from his comments, quoted above, I think that Dr. Franklin would have preferred the title A Nation of Artisans.



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
        A period room at A Nation of Artists, showing Victorian furniture and the painting, The Lardner Sisters (1848) by Samuel Bell Waugh.

Given the profusion of skillfully-created craft objects on view, Rookwood vases, carved walnut cabinets, oil lamps with glass shades and chimneys and much more, Franklin would likely be pleased  - and impressed. If there are works of art "more curious than useful" displayed in A Nation of Artists, the American genius for combining utility with beauty is everywhere in evidence. 

This American "genius" is evident elsewhere at PAFA and the PMA  - and beyond the doors of these great museums. There is no sense of finality about A Nation of Artists. The exhibits continue and will "keep-on, keeping-on" as long as creative  Americans set to work to make a reality of their visions.

That this is not wishful thinking was brought home to me after my second visit to A Nation of Artists at the PMAI had been looking forward to visiting the exhibition of paintings of Noah Davis for weeks. A long, cold winter and lots of snow - by Philadelphia standards - kept interfering with my travel plans.

In a way, it was good that I waited until after seeing A Nation of Artists. Noah Davis (1983-2015), I soon realized, was one of the "natural Geniuses, that have arisen in America" as noted by Benjamin Franklin. Davis, moreover, remained on his native soil. 

Noah Davis aimed to present the African-American community of Los Angeles free of stereotypes, filled with down-to-earth humanity and a quiet, unpretentious nobility. Struggling with a rare form of cancer, Davis succeeding in creating an impressive, heart-stirring body of work before he died, aged thirty-seven in 2015. 



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
Paintings by Noah Davis, Pueblo de Rio: Vernon, 2014; Mary Jane, 2008

As long as artists in the U.S.A. devote themselves to their chosen forms of creative expression with the same courage, integrity and skill as Noah Davis, then America is sure to remain "a nation of artists."

***

Text: Copyright of Ed Voves, all rights reserved; Photos: copyright of Ed Voves and Anne Lloyd.                                                   

Introductory Image: Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Gallery view of the A Nation of Artists exhibition at the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts (PAFA), showing the artist’s palette of Cecelia Beaux, PAFA collection.

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) The Great Stair Hall of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, showing Augustus St. Gaudens' Diana and video highlights of the A Nation of Artists exhibition at the PMA. 

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Gallery view of the A Nation of Artists exhibition at the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts (PAFA).

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Charles Burchfield's Hill Top at High Noon, 1925. Oil on canvas: 32 × 22 in. (78.7 × 55.9 cm) PAFA collection, #1928.1

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Winslow Homer's Fox Hunt, 1893. Oil on canvas: 38 × 68 1/2 in. (96.52 × 173.99 cm) PAFA collection, #1894.4

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Kristen Shepard, President & CEO of  the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts; Daniel Weiss, Director & CEO of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Gallery view of the A Nation of Artists exhibition at the  Philadelphia Museum of Art (PMA), showing a silk dress, c. 1866-68, colored magenta, by using a recently invented aniline dye. 

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Gallery view of the A Nation of Artists exhibition at the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts (PAFA).

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Gallery view of the A Nation of Artists exhibition at the PMA, showing a Carousel Horse, carved by Daniel Mueller, c. 1917. PMA collection. #2019-101-1

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Death cart (Carreta de la Muerta), 1880-1900, from  New Mexico. Cottonwood, with spruce wheels: 51 x 25 x 49 inches (129.5 x 63.5 x 124.5 cm) PMA collection. # 2006-85-1.

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) John S. Middleton at the joint press preview of A Nation of Artists, April 10, 2026, held at the PMA and PAFA.

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Charles Willson Peale's George Washington at Princeton, 1779.  Oil on canvas: 96 1/2 x 61 1/2 in. (243.8 x 156.2 cm.) Middleton Family Collection. 

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Gallery view showing Edward Hopper's The Lee Shore, 1941, and Joseph Stella's The Swan, 1924.

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Edward Hopper's The Lee Shore, 1941. Oil on canvas: 28 ¼ x 43 in. (71.76 x 109.22 cm.) Middleton Family Collection.

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Andrew Wyeth's Crown of Flowers, 1974. Dry brush water color: 10 ¼ x 12 ¾ in. Middleton Family Collection.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2018) Joseph Siffred Duplessis' Benjamin Franklin,1778. This portrait appeared in the Visitors to Versailles exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2018. Metropolitan Museum of Art collection.

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Period room at A Nation of Artists, showing Victorian furniture and the painting, The Lardner Sisters (1848) by Samuel Bell Waugh.

Ed Voves, Photo (2026) Paintings by Noah Davis, Pueblo de Rio: Vernon, 2014. Oil on canvas: 69 x 76 in.; Mary Jane, 2008. Oil and acrylic on canvas: 60 x 52 1/4 in. Private collections, on view at the PMA.

Monday, January 12, 2026

Fashion Statement: Art Eyewitness Tribute to Dilys Blum


Fashion Statement

                               Art Eyewitness tribute to Dilys Blum                                  

Curator of Costumes & Textiles at the Philadelphia Art Museum

By Ed Voves

The email messages of January 8, 2026 brought sad tidings for the new year. The Press Office of the Philadelphia Art Museum sent a release announcing the "loss of Dilys E. Blum, the Jack M. and Annette Y. Friedland Senior Curator of Costume and Textiles, who passed away on December 27, 2025."

The magnitude of the contributions of this supremely gifted curator and art historian was underlined by the words of tribute from Daniel Weiss, the director and CEO of the museum. Reflecting upon the brilliant life's work of Dilys Blum, Weiss noted:

Through decades of scholarship and curatorial rigor, she transformed this museum’s Costume and Textiles department into a program respected around the world. Her work expanded the very idea of what belongs in an art museum and ensured that these objects are appreciated as vital expressions of culture and identity. We are profoundly grateful for her contributions and the foundation she built for the future.



Portrait of Dilys Blum
Courtesy of the Philadelphia Art Museum

With a testimonial for Dilys Blum like this, further commentary may seem hardly necessary. Yet, one of the most telling proofs of human achievement is the effect on the attitudes of others and the ways that they incorporate these mental/emotional shifts in their own actions.

It is very significant in his valedictory words, that Daniel Weiss should have emphasized how Blum "expanded the very idea of what belongs in an art museum and ensured that these objects are appreciated as vital expressions of culture and identity."

I can truthfully say that the insights and influence of Dilys Blum and her fellow curators at the Costume and Textile Department of the Philadelphia Art Museum have had a powerful and positive effect on Art Eyewitness. Two 2018 exhibitions, both of which involved the Costume and Textile Department, influence the way that I now look at the correlation of the visual arts and the "material" world.

Before commenting on these 2018 exhibitions, a brief look at Blum's impressive credentials is in order. 

After graduating with a degree in art history at Connecticut College, Blum traveled to England to do graduate work at the University of Manchester and the prestigious Courtauld Institute. Blum returned to the U.S., joining the Costume and Textile Department of the Philadelphia Museum of Art (as it was then called) in 1987. There she stayed for nearly thirty-eight years, becoming the senior curator and leader of one of the most dynamic departments at the Philadelphia Art Museum.



Philadelphia Art Museum catalogs, written/edited by Dilys Blum

During her nearly four decades at the Philadelphia Art Museum, Blum curated over 40 exhibitions. These ranged from displays of high fashion design, like Best Dressed: 250 Years of Style (1997), to folk-art textile creations like Gee's Bend, the Architecture of the Quilt (2008). Especially notable were Shocking!, the 2003 exhibition devoted to Elsa Schiaparelli, the controversial designer whose clothing  reflected Surrealist art of the 1930's, and Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love (2014).

Shocking! the Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli made quite a "statement" back in 2003. That was a decade before Art Eyewitness was launched and years before I was able to appreciate the place of couture and textiles in the realm of art. 

 


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2025)
 Dresses designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, displayed in the Philadelphia Art Museum exhibitionBoom! Art & Design in the 1940's

Fortunately, during the spring-summer of 2025, visitors to the Philadelphia Art Museum were able to savor a taste of Shocking! in an exhibition curated by Blum, devoted to the design ethic of the World War II years and its aftermath.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2025)
         The entrance to the Boom! Art & Design in the 1940's exhibition,         on view at the Philadelphia Art Museum, April to September 2025

Boom! 1940's featured a display of Schiaparelli-designed suits and evening dresses. These dated to the years, 1939 to 1941, an ominous time when the last flourishes of 1930's style gave way to wartime realities.

An added note, unsuspected at the time of the opening of Boom!, this was to be the last exhibition curated by Blum.


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2025)
 Dilys Blum at the press preview for Boom! Art & Design in the 1940's

Dilys Blum's death, only a few months after she retired, is indeed a great loss. However, it should be noted that great leaders, in whatever their respective profession, are those who plan and organize for the time when they no longer guide their organizations. In the closing of his tribute to Blum, Daniel Weiss underscored this in his praise for "the foundation she built for the future."

Evidence of Blum's "strategic" leadership, her ability to inspire and delegate responsibility, work with other departments and lay foundations for the future were a feature of her tenure as head of the Costume and Textile Department of the Philadelphia Art Museum.

The 2018 exhibitions which I mentioned earlier as striking examples of the contributions and capabilities of the Costume and Textile Department were: Modern Times: American Art 1910-1950, displayed from April 18, 2018 to September 3, 2018 and Fabulous Fashion: From Dior’s New Look to Now, on view from October 16, 2018 to March 3, 2019.

These two outstanding exhibitions had several things in common. The exhibits took place during the renovation years at the Philly museum, when works from the museum's collection, rather than loans, were of critical importance. And both exhibits were not curated by Blum.

This may seem a strange way to applaud Blum's leadership. Yet, as I hope to prove, these exhibits did exactly that.

Modern Times, curated by Jessica Todd Smith, surveyed 20th century American art in all its diversity, from the era of the Armory Show to the Ab-Ex painters of the 1950's. It drew on the museum's rich collections of painting, sculpture and photos. However, what really brought the early years of the "American century" to life were the displays of period clothing from Costume and Textile Department holdings.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2018)
 Gallery view of Modern Times: American Art 1910-1950,
 at the Philadelphia Art Museum, April to September 2018

One contrasting display of painting and couture was particularly striking. It paired Spring Sale at Bendel's (1921) by Florine Stettheimer with a mannequin clad in a contemporary red silk dress and an unusual "turban" hat, dating to 1920. It was such a seamless match that one almost could believe that the "lady in red" had just finished shopping at Henri Bendel's 57th Street Department Store and was waiting for a taxi!



A study in contrasts: Spring Sale at Bendel's (1921) by Florine Stettheimer, with a red silk dress and turban hat, ca. early 1920's.

This was definitely not the look of "Gatsby" era design that one associates with the Twenties. Additionally, I doubt that, when the red dress and the turban hat were added to the collection of the Costume and Textile Department, the opportunity to display them as seen here would been considered as a "match." Yet, thanks to careful collection management, these remarkable survivors from the Jazz Age helped bring the Modern Times exhibition to life in 2018.

The importance of collecting and preserving apparel and accoutrements in depth and across a wide range of historical eras is vital for a museum department like Costume and Textile at the Philadelphia Art Museum. 



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2018)
 Victorian-era girl's dress, ca. 1867-68, from the collection of the Costume and Textile Department, Philadelphia Art Museum 

Not all museums maintain costume collections, while others have abandoned the effort. In 2010, for instance, the Brooklyn Museum bequeathed its impressive garment holdings to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. But Dilys Blum and the staff of her department redoubled their efforts and the dividends paid-off in the spectacular 2018 exhibition, Fabulous Fashion: from Dior's New Look to Now.



Ed Voves, Photo (2018)
 The entrance to the Fabulous Fashion exhibit, Oct. 2018-March 2019 

Fabulous Fashion was the exhibition which really opened my eyes to the vital importance of including couture - clothing, accessories, and textiles - within the realm of high art. Beginning with the inspired efforts of Christian Dior, Tina Leser and other fashion designers to bring a sense of beauty back to a war-ravaged world, the exhibition charted a timeline of creative achievement from 1947 to the present day.

 


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2018)
 Gallery view of Fabulous Fashion, showing designs by the Christian Dior gallery. At left, Woman's Suit, Jacket, Skirt, Belt & Camisole, Fall/Winter 1998. At right, is the Woman's Dress, Bodice and Skirt, Spring 1948.



Ed Voves, Photo (2018)
 Tina Leser's hand-painted Sea Fan Fantasy Evening Dress, 1947

Not only are these stunning creations beautiful to behold, but, in large measure, they were made by hand, or with the skillful use of technological means which heighten, rather than diminish, the role of devoted, hardworking garment makers.

As I mentioned above, Dilys Blum was not the curator of Fabulous Fashion. Rather, it was her talented colleague in the Costume and Textile Department, Kristina Haugland, who brought this magnificent 2018 exhibition to such a high degree of perfection. But I don't think anyone would disagree with me when I say that Fabulous Fashion was mounted in the signature style of the Philadelphia Art Museum during the Dilys Blum years.



Ed Voves, Photo (2018)
 Gallery view of Fabulous Fashion, showing (from left)
 Issy Miyake's Woman's "Flying Saucer" Dress, 1994; Charles James' Woman's Dinner Suit: Jacket and Skirt, 1955; Giorgio di Sant'Angelo's Woman's Ensemble: Bodysuit and Skirt, 1971 

While reading Daniel Weiss' valedictory for Dilys Blum, the second sentence struck a particularly significant note: 

Her work expanded the very idea of what belongs in an art museum and ensured that these objects are appreciated as vital expressions of culture and identity.

Dilys Blum treated rare Kantha fabrics from India with the same care that she devoted to a Givenchy evening dress. Such an attitude bespeaks of respect for people and cultures from all over the world and throughout the annals of time. 

Although I only met Blum once - that I can recall - I was much impressed. I hope, indeed, expect that her legacy will continue at the Philadelphia Art Museum. Hopefully, a major retrospective exhibition in her honor will be mounted, much as the Morgan Library and Museum did recently for its first director, Belle da Costa Green.

Of course, we need not wait for a special occasion to honor to Dilys Blum. We can do that right now. We can follow her lead by "expanding our ideas of what belongs in an art museum" and appreciating these precious talismans as "vital expressions of culture and identity."

***

Text: Copyright of Ed Voves, all rights reserved.

Original photography, copyright of Anne Lloyd

Introductory image:

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2018), Gallery view of the Fabulous Fashion: From Dior’s New Look to Now exhibition at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The dress shown is a 1962 palazzo pants ensemble designed by Irene Galitzin.


Portrait of Dilys Blum. Courtesy of the Philadelphia Art Museum.


Philadelphia Art Museum catalogs, written/edited by Dilys Blum. Copyright of the Philadelphia Art Museum.


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2025) Dresses designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, displayed in the Philadelphia Art Museum exhibitionBoom! Art & Design in the 1940's. 


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2025) The entrance to Boom! Art & Design in the 1940's at the Philadelphia Art Museum, April to September 2025. 


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2025) Dilys Blum at the press preview for Boom! Art & Design in the 1940's. 


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2018) Gallery view of Modern Times: American Art 1910-1950at the Philadelphia Art Museum, April to September 2018.

Spring Sale at Bendel's (1921). Oil painting by Florine Stettheimer; red silk dress and turban hat, ca. early 1920's (photo by Anne Lloyd). Collection of Philadelphia Museum of Art.


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2018) Victorian-era girl's dress, ca. 1867-68, from the collection of the Costume and Textile Department, Philadelphia Art Museum. 


Ed Voves, Photo (2018) The entrance to the Fabulous Fashion exhibition at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, October 2018-March 2019.


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2018) Gallery view of Fabulous Fashion: From Dior’s New Look to Now, showing designs by the Christian Dior gallery. At left, Woman's Suit, Jacket, Skirt, Belt & Camisole, Fall/Winter 1998. At right, is the Woman's Dress, Bodice and Skirt, Spring 1948. Collection of the Philadelphia Art Museum.


Ed Voves, Photo (2018) Tina Leser's handpainted Sea Fan Fantasy Evening Dress, 1947. Collection of the Philadelphia Art Museum.


Ed Voves, Photo (2018) Gallery view of Fabulous Fashion: From Dior’s New Look to Now at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. From left are: Issy Miyake's Woman's "Flying Saucer" Dress, 1994; Charles James' Woman's Dinner Suit: Jacket and Skirt, 1955; Giorgio di Sant'Angelo's Woman's Ensemble: Bodysuit and Skirt, 1971. All dresses are from the collection of the Philadelphia Art Museum.