Tuesday, June 9, 2026

Art Eyewitness Review: Rising Up - Rocky Statue Exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art

 


Rising Up: Rocky and the Making of Monuments

Philadelphia Museum of Art

April 25- August 2, 2026

Reviewed by Ed Voves

Original photography by Anne Lloyd

In January 1976, the Chartoff-Winkler Production Company began on-location filming in Philadelphia of a movie devoted to boxing. With a script written by a struggling young actor, Sylvester Stallone, the film was a big-screen adaptation of a familiar Hollywood genre, the "underdog" hero who battles the odds.

Using the recently-invented "steady-cam" motion picture camera, the unforgettable run of Rocky Balboa, a "bum from the neighborhood", up the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art was recorded. It would prove to be a moment of movie magic.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2025) 
The fabled "Rocky" steps. Gonna Fly Now!!! 

There was not much attention paid to the film production during the winter/spring months of 1976. It was the year of the Bicentennial. Americans were busy preparing for the celebration of the 200th anniversary of the birth of the United States.

Rocky, when it was released by United Artists in December 1976, was a popular hit and a critical success. Fifty years on, this Academy Award-winning movie, along with its five sequels and the spin-off Creed series, is one of the most universally embraced films in cinematic history. 



Anne Lloyd, Photos (1976 & 2024) 
The view from the "Rocky" steps of Philadelphia's skyline, then and now

The impact of Rocky is so great that the Philadelphia Museum of Art is currently mounting an exhibition using the film as a "take-off" point. This is a significant point to note, as there is very little in Rising Up: Rocky and the Making of Monuments by way of memorabilia from the film - with one very powerful exception. 



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026)
 Rocky, sculpted by A.Thomas Schomberg (1980),
 and given by Sylvester Stallone to the City of Philadelphia

That exception is the statue of Rocky, raising his arms in triumph. Sculpted by A.Thomas Schomberg (born, 1943) in 1980 and then cast in bronze, the statue was originally intended as a movie "prop" for Rocky III, released in 1982.



The statue has been the subject of both adulation and criticism. An initial proposal for the statue to remain at the Philadelphia Museum of Art (PMA), following Rocky III, was rejected. But the bronze Rocky eventually made its way back to a street-level sanctuary on the side of the museum, not  - initially - the steps.  A constant stream of visitors over the years turned it into a veritable pilgrimage site.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2020)
The Rocky Statue, on view on the northwest side of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, before its placement in the Rising Up exhibition

Now the once-spurned movie "prop" is inside the museum. Outside, at the top of the "Rocky Steps" is a second version, owned by Sylvester Stallone and on loan to the PMA. 



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2024) 
A "Rocky" moment on the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art 

Thus, people can see the Rocky "twins" and still run-up the steps, raising their arms to the sky like champions. And they do - an estimated 4 million per year, rivaling the number of visitors to the Statue of Liberty.

The Rocky experience is obviously a response to some primal human need or compulsion. Indeed, mythic is not too strong a word to use in relation to the Rocky phenomenon. This is especially true when the statue is contrasted with the images of Greek gods and goddesses, looming above on the pediment of the museum.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2024)
Rocky, with Carl Jennewein's Western Civilization Pediment

The current exhibition at the PMA seeks to address the reason why Rocky has struck such a chord.

Rising Up: Rocky and the Making of Monuments investigates the way that the sport of boxing has influenced and inspired popular conceptions of what it means to be a champion and how society regards, rewards or ignores such heroics. 



Ed Voves, Photo (2026) 
Paul Farber of Monument Lab, with Jacqui Frazier-Lyde,
 daughter of Joe Frazier, at the press preview for
 Rising Up: Rocky and the Making of Monuments

Rising Up: Rocky and the Making of Monuments is organized by a guest curator, Paul Farber, director and co-founder of Monument Lab. This Philadelphia-based organization is dedicated to re-imagining public spaces and the statues and monuments which are placed there In order to promote social justice and community well-being.

As its title proclaims, the Rocky-inspired exhibition is dedicated to "rising up." This process, ironically, involves many a "knock out." Surveying the sport of boxing, Farber shows how marginalized ethnic groups have won respect due to the courage, grit and fighting skills of heroes from their ranks.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) 
Mahroni Young's Right to the Jaw, 1926-27

A selection of carefully-chosen art works and artifacts illustrates the long historical lineage of Rocky Balboa. 

 


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) 
Neck Amphora from ancient Greece, 510-490 BC, showing a
 boxing match created in the Archaic Black Figure technique 

In ancient Greece, boxing entered the list of approved sports in the Olympics in 688 BC. As a result, boxers from small city-states could compete - and sometimes beat - opponents from more powerful rivals. The most famous Greek boxer was the undefeated champion, Claucis, c. 520 BC. Glaucis was a citizen of Carystus, often dominated and bullied by Athens - but not in the boxing ring!

During the late 18th and early 19th century, boxing as we know it today was largely created in England. The sport was dominated by Daniel Mendoza (1764-1836), a highly-skilled Jewish fighter, and Tom Molineaux (1784-1818) a rugged African-American boxer. Molineaux fought a highly publicized bout against the reigning champion, Tom Cribb, losing in what many regarded as a "rigged" encounter. But he gained widespread respect, serving as the inspiration for one of the Staffordshire figurines shown below.                                                                        


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) 
Staffordshire Pottery Figurines from England, c. 1815. The African American boxer, Tom Molineaux, at left, vs Tom Cribb.

Closer to our era is Joe Louis (1914-1981). The "Brown Bomber" (as Louis was called) is represented in the exhibition by an unsettling portrait sculpture by Ruth Yates. Louis, a powerful fighter with 66 wins, 3 defeats, held the heavy-weight title longer than any other boxer (1937-1949). He was also a deeply humane and generous man. The stern, emotion-drained countenance of this sculpture is almost unrecognizable compared to the photos of Louis included in the exhibition.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) 
Marble sculpture portrait of Joe Louis, created by Ruth Yates,1940;
 photo of Joe Louis, taken by Carl van Vechten, September 15,1941

Joe Louis became a folk hero to African Americans in the still-segregated U.S. of the 1930's. By virtue of his manifest humanity, not to mention boxing skill, he was embraced by white Americans, too. 

Sadly, Louis became a tragic hero as well. With most of his earnings siphoned-off by dishonest managers, Louis was hounded by the IRS for unpaid taxes. As a result, he was compelled to fight long-after his prime, when two of his three defeats occurred. Eventually, the "Brown Bomber" was reduced to the humiliation of performing in the professional wrestling circuit.

The saga of Joe Louis sets the stage in Rising Up for the story of a real life "Rocky."  The rise to boxing greatness of Joe Frazier and his epic duels with Muhammad Ali are brought to life with a superb array of works of art, photos and memorabilia - including Frazier's boxing gloves. 



Anne Lloyd, Photos (2026) 
Joe Frazier's Boxing Gloves, made by Everlast, 1970. 

As visitors to the exhibition watch a video recording of the 1971"Fight of the Century," a charge of excitement surges through the gallery.


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) 
 Photo by Larry Morris (New York Times) of Joe Frazier vs Muhammad Ali
 and video recording of the "Fight of the Century", March 8, 1971 

Joe Frazier was born in 1944 to share-cropper parents in the rural South. Just as Joe Louis sought to escape poverty and racism by joining the Great Migration to Detroit, Frazier did the same, in his case to Philadelphia. 



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) 
Six Headshots of Joe Frazier, by an Unknown Photographer. 
Private Collection of Joe Hand III

Much like the fictional Rocky Balboa, Frazier honed his boxing skill, slugging beef carcasses in the meat-packing plant where he worked in Philadelphia. From this humble start, Frazier went on to win the Gold Medal for Boxing in the 1964 Olympics.

The similarity between these two working-class heroes, Frazier/Rocky, was deliberately underscored by Stallone in the film script, especially in the way that the blue-collar fighter was pitted against the flamboyant Apollo Creed.

Yet, nothing in fiction or fantasy could ever match the drama of the actual Frazier-Ali fights. 

The Frazier-Ali fights were true battles, inflicting brutal physical punishment and lasting scars on both men. What began as a prize fight developed into a grudge match.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) 
Detail of the Madison Square Garden poster for the March 8, 1971
 "Fight of the Century", original artwork by LeRoy Neimann.

This review is not the place to re-fight the three boxing duels from the 1970's. However, the political factors which impinged upon the relationship between Frazier and Ali do require some commentary here. 

Why? The stated aim of the curator of Rising Up, Paul Farber of Monument Lab, is to promote social justice. Unfortunately, it was the crusading ardor of the late 1960's-70's which helped poison the atmosphere of the Frazier-Ali fights.

Joe Frazier and Muhammad Ali started-out as close friends. When Ali was stripped of his Heavyweight Boxing title in 1967 for refusing to support the Vietnam War, Frazier stood by Ali. Frazier lent Ali money to support his family and petitioned President Nixon to lift the ban and allow Ali to return to the boxing ring.

A critical incident took place during the 1968 Mexico City Olympics with a huge impact on American society at large and, indirectly, on Ali and Frazier.That year, two African American athletes, Tommie Smith and John Carlos, raised their fists during the playing of the U.S. National Anthem. They did this to show solidarity with the Civil Rights Movement and other social activist causes.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) 
Hank Willis Thomas' Solidarity, 2023, Pace Gallery collection

The resulting furor, coming in the wake of protests over the war in Vietnam, promoted an uncompromising mindset on social discourse throughout the U.S. When Muhammad Ali eventually returned to boxing, he embraced this militancy. But instead of focusing his radical comments directly at the White power structure, Ali took aim at Frazier, whom he lambasted as an "Uncle Tom."

Stunned and embittered by this verbal abuse, Frazier fought with exceptional determination in the first of his bouts with Ali, which he won. Ali responded. By the end of the third and last fight, in Manila in 1975, the duel between the two mighty legends of the ring had become a personal feud.

"They did not fight for the heavyweight title of the world," wrote the noted boxing authority, Jerry Izenberg in 1975. "The way they fought, they were fighting for the championship of each other."

Sadly, there was no reconciliation between Frazier and Ali, though Ali did attend Frazier's funeral in 2011. But the great lesson to be drawn from their rivalry is not a negative one. Ultimately, it is a matter of "rising up."  

At the press preview for Rising Up, Joe Frazier's daughter, Jacqui Frazier-Lyde, spoke movingly about her father, who demonstrated how to "embrace the champion in you."



Anne Lloyd, Photos (2026) 
Fifty years later, Rocky's appeal is undiminished. 

Words to live by. "Embrace the champion in you." 


Anne Lloyd, Photos (2026) 
A Rocky enthusiast embracing her inner champion!

Words to exclaim and exult! Race-up the "Rocky" steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, raise your arms to the sky and let your heart and soul arise.

***

Text: Copyright of Ed Voves, all rights reserved                                                                                          

Original photography, copyright of Anne Lloyd

Introductory Image: Anne Lloyd, Photo (2025) A "Rocky" Moment at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Anne Lloyd, Photos (1976, 2020, 2024, 2025, 2026) Photographs of the "Rocky" steps at the Philadelphia Museum of Art and visitors doing the "Rocky" run.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026)The Rocky statue by A. Thomas Schomberg, 1980. Bronze: 8' 6'' x 4' x 2' (base: 1' 6" x 3' 6" x 3' 6") Gift of Sylvester Stallone to the City of Philadelphia.

Ed Voves,  Photo (2026) Paul Farber of Monument Lab, with Jacqui Frazier-Lyde, daughter of Joe Frazier at the press preview for Rising Up: Rocky and the Making of Monuments

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026)  Mahroni Young's Right to the Jaw, 1926-27. Roman Bronze Works. Bronze: 15 x 21 1/4 x 10 1/8 inches (38.1 x 54 x 25.7 cm) (overall, including base) Smithsonian American Art Museum.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) Neck Amphora from ancient Greece, 510-490 BC. Ceramic Black Figure vessel: 29.5 x 18.5 x 17 cm. Collection of the University of Pennsylvania Museum.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) Figures of Boxers, Tom Molineaux and Tom Cribb, c. 1815. Staffordshire potteries, England. Pearlglazed earthenware with overglaze painted decoration. Collection of the Winterthur Museum, Delaware.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) Ruth Yates's Joe Louis,1940. Vermont marble sculpture: 18 5/16 x 13 x 13 3/8 inches (46.5 x 33 x 34 cm) Wolfsonian-FIU, The Mitchell Wolfson, Jr. collection.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) Joe Frazier's Boxing Gloves, made by Everlast c. 1970. Red leather: 12 (length) x 7 (width) x 5.5 (depth) x 19 (circumference) inches. Atwater Kent Collection, Drexel University.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) Gallery view of the Rising Up: Rocky and the Making of Monument exhibition, showing a large format photograph by Larry Morris, New York Times, of the March 8, 1971 boxing match between Joe Frazier and Muhammad Ali.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026)  Six Headshots of Joe Frazier. Photographer unknown. Private Collection of Joe Hand III.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) Detail of the Madison Square Garden poster for the March 8, 1971 boxing match between Joe Frazier and Muhammad Ali. Original artwork by LeRoy Neimann.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) Hank Willis Thomas' Solidarity, 2023. Patina bronze: 86.8 x 24.8 x 36.7 inches (220.5 x 62.9 x 93.2 cm) Pace Gallery, Los Angeles.

 

Monday, May 18, 2026

Art Eyewitness Book Review: The Secrets of Painting by Lachlan Goudie

 

The Secrets of Painting

By Lachlan Goudie

Thames & Hudson/383 pages/$50

Reviewed by Ed Voves

Original photography by Anne Lloyd

The calendar here at Art Eyewitness is structured according to five seasons: spring, summer, autumn and winter like the rest of the world - and one, very exceptional, span of time. This unconventional fifth season begins during the last week of April and, most years, extends almost to the end of May.

Iris Season. 

Anne and I love this regal, elegant perennial with its six petals, three upright "standards" and three spreading "falls." Nothing symbolizes the yearly rebirth of nature like the Iris.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) 
Iris "season" in Philadelphia!

Imagine my surprise - and delight - upon opening the new Thames & Hudson book, The Secrets of Painting, by the Scottish artist and author, Lachlan Goudie. There, I discovered that one of the supreme works of Japanese art is a pair of folding screens, composed of twelve golden panels painted with purple-hued irises. No cherry blossoms or chrysanthemums, just irises. 



Ogata Korin, Irises, c. 1701-4. (Left-hand screen)

The extraordinary story of Korin's Irises is also a tale of redemption. Ogata Korin (1658-1716), the playboy son of a wealthy merchant, had squandered his inheritance. With Irises, he set out to make a masterpiece which would restore his family's honor and his financial solvency. In the process, Korin created what is now revered as a National Treasure of Japan.



Ogata Korin, Irises, c. 1701-4. (Right-hand screen)

Painstaking skill, incredible focus and devotion to time-honored artistic traditions were the means by which Korin achieved his goal. But he did not do it alone. 

Korin worked with a team of craftsmen. These artisans performed a staggering amount of labor preparing the special paper on which Koren worked and the delicate gold leaf that was used for the background of the irises he painted. 

In his chapter on Ogata Korin in The Secrets of Painting, Lachlan Goudie describes how the fragile sheets of gold leaf were created. There were 120 squares of gold leaf for each panel, 1,500 for the entire expanse of the pair of folding screens. Each square of gold leaf was hammered 10,000 times into a sheet "so thin that that the slightest breath would cause it to tear." 



Ogata Korin, Irises. (Detail from fifth panel, right-hand screen)

Next came the step of applying the squares of gold leaf onto the glue-primed paper screens. This entailed using an astonishing process which involved static-charged wax paper to hold the gold leaf without directly touching it.

Once the gold leaf had been applied to the panels, could Korin begin to paint the sketched images of the iris flowers in deep blue and violet. This was the culminating step in the exacting process by which Korin and his team of artisans nurtured the iris garden into "full bloom." 

Goudie is a painter himself - and a fine one - so he appreciates the singular role of the masterpiece-creating artist. Singular but not solitary



Many of the painters chronicled in The Secrets of Painting presided over busy workshops just as Ogata Korin did in Japan. Giotto, painting the great fresco narative of the lives of Jesus and his mother, Mary, for the Arena Chapel in Padua, 1303-1305, was one notable example of this group approach to art. Duccio's The Maestà, created in Siena, a few years later, was another.  

Duccio and his talented helpers featured in the wonderful 2024 exhibition, Siena, the Rise of Painting, presented by the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the National Gallery in London. 



Ed Voves, Photo (2024) 
Gallery view of Siena, the Rise of Painting exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, showing predella paintings from the Maestà. 

Among the highlights of Siena, the Rise of Painting was the reunion of a sequence of narrative panel paintings which had been detached from the main image of the Virgin Mary and the Christ Child on the Maestà during the 1700's. One of these predella panels, The Healing of the Man Born Blind, served as the focus of Goudie's attention in the chapter on Duccio.

 


Duccio di Buoninsegna, The Healing of the Man Born Blind,
 predella panel from the Maestà (1308-11)

After learning everything there is to know about late-medieval art practice, Goudie rolled-up his sleeves and tried to replicate the process used by Duccio and his assistants to create the MaestàIn a fascinating and readily understandable discourse, Goudie describes his own efforts at painting with the egg tempera paint used by Duccio and gilding and burnishing a halo with gold leaf. 

This was not a one-time experiment. In the first chapter of The Secrets of Painting, Goudie tried his hand at prehistoric rock painting, replicating animal images from the Chauvet Cave murals dating to over 30,000 years ago. With incredible versatility, Goudie performed similar "experiments" on iconic works of art ranging from the Fayum mummy portraits of ancient Egypt to David Hockney's iPad drawings.

In his final chapter, Goudie discusses Artificial Intelligence (AI) generated imagery. He is cautiously optimistic, writing that AI will "distill, reinvent and master the secrets of painting ... a prospect both mesmerizing and unsettling in equal measure."

The Secrets of Painting contains numerous examples of discoveries or technical innovations which have enabled artists to transcend challenges and make personal leaps of creative genius. Here are two which offer encouraging evidence that Goudie's hopes for AI are not unfounded.



Alma Thomas at the opening of her 1972 Whitney Museum exhibition;
 Alma Thomas, Blast Off, c. 1970

Alma Thomas was an African-American woman who taught art in the segregated school system of Washington D.C., beginning in 1925. When she retired in 1960, Thomas planned to devote her considerable talents to art full-time. Almost immediately, she began suffering from extreme arthritis. After making a partial recovery, Thomas resumed painting with water-based acrylic paint. Much easier to use than oils, acrylic paints enabled Thomas to cope with her physical limitations and create brilliant abstract paintings like Blast Off (1970).

A century earlier, oil paints, available in a recently-invented format, extended the mobility of a group of intrepid French artists, one of whom was a young woman named Berthe Morisot.



Berthe Morisot, 1841-1895

Berthe Morisot was in many ways the most radical of the group, soon to be called Impressionists. Morisot focused, not on careful depictions of the landscape before her easel, but on light itself. She sought to show how light radiantly transforms the world around us. To succeed, Morisot had to be quick about it.



Winsor and Newton Paint Tube, Victorian era;
 Berthe Morisot, Summer's Day, c. 1879

Morisot's "apprentices" were metal paint tubes, filled with already mixed pigment, and sealed with screw-on lids. An American inventor, John Goffe Rand, had patented these tubes in 1841. These labor-saving paint tubes enabled Morisot to work with the speed and skill necessary to achieve striking visual effects. The Impressionist Revolution had truly begun.

In a key passage in his book, Goudie writes:

At every step in art history the evolution of painting materials has been accompanied by changes in artistic style and technique. Was it the artists who demanded new materials to express their unconventional ideas, or did new schools of painting evolve in response to the discoveries of scientists working in their laboratories?

Today, as humankind makes its first ventures into the Age of AI, the above questions are taking on ever greater significance. It's not merely a case of looking before we leap. Essential issues of human identity and what constitutes true art are involved.

Lachlan Goudie's The Secrets of Painting is subtitled "the hidden art of the masterpiece from prehistory to today." This outstanding book is also required reading - and reflecting - on where the world of art is headed tomorrow.

 ***

 Text: Copyright of Ed Voves, all rights reserved                                        

 Original Photographs: Copyright of Anne Lloyd, all rights reserved.

Introductory Image: Ancient Egyptian paint brushes. New Kingdom, 18th dynasty, ca. 1550-1292 B.C. Collection of the British Museum.EA 36893, 36892, 36889; Painter's Palette Inscribed with the Name of King Amenhotep III, ca. 1390-1353 B.C. From Egypt. Ivory, pigment, 6 7/8 x 1 3/4 x 3/8 in. (17.5 x 4.4 x .9 cm). The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York,

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2026) Photos of Iris flowers, Philadelphia, PA.

Ogata Korin (Japanese, 1658-1716) Irises, c. 1701-1704. Pair of folding screens in ink, color and gold on paper, each screen measuring 59 1/2 x 141 1/4 in. (151.2 x 358.8 cm.) Nezu Museum, Tokyo.


Cover art of of The Secrets of Painting by Lachlan Goudie, 2026. Courtesy of Thames & Hudson


Ed Voves, Photo (2024) Gallery view of the Siena, the Rise of Painting exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Oct. 13, 2024 - Jan. 26, 2025.

Duccio di Buoninsegna (Italian, died 1318/19) The Healing of the Man Born Blind. Tempera on wood: 17 3/4 x 18 3/8 in. (45.1 x 46.7 cm.) National Gallery, London.

Jack Whitten, Photo (1972) Photograph of Alma Thomas at the opening of her exhibition at the Whitney Museum of American Art, 1972. Photo print: b&w, 13 x 9 cm.  Alma Thomas papers, circa 1894-2001. Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution.

Alma Thomas (American, 1891-1978) Blast Off, Acrylic on canvas: 6 ft. x 4 ft.4 in. (182.9 x 131.1 cm.) Collection of the National Air and Space Museum, Washington D.C. 

Unknown photographer(19th century) Portrait of Berthe Morisot. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Morisot_berthe_photo.jpg

Winsor and Newton Paint Tube, Victorian era. https://www.winsornewton.com/pages/about-us

Berthe Morisot (French, 1841‐1895) Summer's Day,1879Oil on canvas:45.7 x 75.2 cm (18 x 29 1/8 in.) National Gallery, London.






Thursday, April 30, 2026

Art Eyewitness Book Review: Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Feast

 

Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Feast

By Marie-Sophie Carron de la Carrière

Thames & Hudson/272pages/$65

Reviewed by Ed Voves

How have the mighty fallen! 

These familiar words supply the refrain for one of the most time-honored topics in literature and history - the rise and fall of daring, high-stakes risk takers. 

From the ancient Greeks, with their concepts of hubris and nemesis, to "rich today, broke tomorrow" financial magnates, stories of those who defy the odds - and the "gods" - are fascinating and unnerving. Life can be very, very unkind to most people at some point in their lives, but especially so to those with the ambition to gamble everything for fame, power and riches.

Paul Poiret (1879-1944) was the protagonist in such a cautionary tale. Poiret chose to roll the dice of fate in the competition between haute couture fashion houses rather than on an actual battlefield. But the end result for Poiret le Magnifique was the same as for Napoleon at Waterloo.



Unknown photographer, Portrait of Paul Poiret, c. 1913

Poiret was the subject of a recent exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, June 2025 to January 2026. It was the biggest art show dedicated to Poiret since the celebrated Met Gala exhibit of 2007. Over five hundred dresses, evening gowns, coats, fashion accessories and works of art were displayed. The majority of these were donated to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs by Poiret's wife.

There are, sadly, no plans to bring a version of Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Feast to the U.S. museums. Thanks to Thames & Hudson, the companion book to the exhibition will keep fashion enthusiasts from rending their garments in despair. Even by T&H's exalted standards, this volume is a brilliant integration of beautiful full-page views of Poiret fashions, vintage photographs and cogent analysis.



Page spread from Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Feast, published by     
Thames & Hudson, showing Poiret's Mosaique Evening Gown, c. 1910

Special strong points of the T&H book are the extraordinary fidelity to color tones - Poiret loved vivid hues, especially green (above) - and the close-up details of dress ensembles such as the hand-embroidered silk crepe designs on the 1911 Flammes Shawl and Culotte-dress.



Page spread from Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Feast, showing Poiret's Flammes Shawl and Culotte-dress 1911

With such a dazzling repertoire, it is not hard to understand why Poiret rose to be the "King of Fashion." Rather more puzzling is how he toppled from his throne.

This begs the question, which the book's lead author, Marie-Sophie Carron de la Carrière, raises.

Who are you, Paul Poiret?

Paul Poiret was born in 1879 to a Parisian family engaged in the fabric trade. Such a background in fashion was hardly extraordinary. Poiret's sisters became successful designers, as well. But Poiret was not content with merely expanding the family business or working in concert with talented siblings. From the start, he had visions of la Grande Couture Française, with himself as its champion.

While still in his twenties, Poiret began selling designs to leading fashion "houses" in Paris. In 1898, after being hired by the firm of Jacques Doucet, one of Poiret's designs, for a theatrical costume used by the actress Rejane in the popular play Zaza, earned him widespread accolades.

After a mandatory year's service in the French Army, Poiret joined the celebrated House of Worth in 1901. What should have been a dream job lasted but a short interval. Like the "wild beast" painters, Matisse and Derain, Poiret wanted to redirect French fashion along unconventional paths. 

In 1903, Poiret opened his own fashion house, with designs emphasizing comfortable, body-configuring lines. In a series of radical moves, Poiret discarded rustling petticoats and the constricting corset which had held women in a tight-grip of stylish discomfort for decades.

Like most great cultural figures, Poiret was a man of contradictions. He boasted about liberating the bodies of women from corsets but claimed credit for introducing the leg-hugging "hobble" skirt, with a hem so-tight that it made walking nearly impossible. The original inspiration, incredibly enough, was to design a skirt to enable women to fit into the cockpit of an airplane.

Most of Poiret's other designs were comfortable, ravishingly beautiful - and highly priced. Cost-cutting was never an option for Poiret. The ultimate expression of his taste for rare, expensive materials and exquisite, painstaking stitchery is worth noting here, though it came late in his career.

 Paul Poiret, Marrekech Evening Gown, 1924

The shimmering Marrekech Evening Gown, dating to 1924, featured silver strip embroidery done in the Tsel stitching technique from the Berber people of Morocco. At the hem, Poiret affixed a wide band of chinchilla fur. The South American animals whose pelts provided the fur had been hunted almost to extinction until a 1910 protective treaty preserved the species. This saved the furry rodents but sent the prices of available fur soaring. 

Expense was no concern to Poiret. Chinchilla fur was added to the bottom of the gown, making it a symbol of luxury for the sake of luxury!

Poiret in a remarkably short interval after opening his "house" became France's leading fashion designer. But he did not succeed through high-priced gimmicks. His clothes were striking to behold and - hobble skirts aside - comfortable to wear. 

What today we would call the Poiret "brand" evolved into a mindset focused on grace and beauty, a life-enhancing experience that buyers brought home with the stunning garments they purchased at his shop.

Two of Poiret's creations from his pre-World War I heyday speak for the glittering fashion array which was displayed at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs and now appear on the pages of the companion book published by T&H.

The Evening Coat, from 1910, was made of a material known as gros de Tours, with brocade design in gold and silver strips, trimmed in fur at the collar, shoulders and wrists and fastened at the waist by six ingeniously-placed silver buttons. Elegant and sensual, the coat also kept the woman who wore it warm on cold, damp winter evenings in Paris.



Paul Poiret, Evening Coat, 1910

If the 1910 Evening Coat was a masterpiece, so was 1912 Melodie Dress. Poiret's focus with the Melodie Dress was on a more natural, organic state of elegance.

At first glance, with its triangular pinafore, made of silk velvet, and side pocket, the Melodie Dress almost looks like a work tunic or leisure attire. But this apparent simplicity could not disguise its "groundbreaking silhouette that is both straight and flowing," to quote Marie-Pierre Ribere, one of the curators from the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. It was a revolutionary moment in fashion design.


Paul Poiret, Melodie Dress, 1912

Two years after introducing the Melodie Dress, Poiret was involved in designing truly functional garments. These were uniforms and overcoats for the French Army engaged in World War I. Poiret served in the army and there are photos of him, looking like a battle-hardened poilu. Though he did not fight in the trenches, the war left its mark on him. The glittering, glamorous world before the war was gone forever.

Poiret was not ready in 1919 to move-on, emotionally, from the pre-1914 milieu which he had dominated. He was not alone. Jean Cocteau, who knew Poiret well, wrote an influential essay, Le Rappel à l’ordre: discipline et liberté, calling for a return to classicism in all forms of cultural expression.

Poiret was only too willing to oblige. Too willing, if fact. Thus began his decline and fall as France's "king" of fashion.



Thérese Bonney, Paul Poiret and the model Rénee, 1927

As Poiret struggled to maintain his supremacy during the aftermath of the "Great War", he created fashion designs of unsurpassed beauty. Of those which appeared in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs exhibition, none exemplifies Poiret's post-war efforts better than the Martinique Dress of 1922.

This reinterpretation of the kimono, made of crepe-marocain and printed crepe de chine, was truly of a work of art. However, women in the 1920's, especially young women, increasingly valued dresses that made them feel vital, alive and sexy - not just look beautiful.



Paul Poiret, Martinique Dress, 1922

For all of its breathtaking allure, Poiret's Martinique Dress would not become the signature fashion design of the 1920's. That honor belongs to Coco Chanel's "Little Black Dress" - in its various incarnations. I saw one of these "flapper" dresses in the 2017 Jazz Age exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt. Even on a mannequin, Chanel's evening dress was the show-stopper of the exhibition.

The success of the"Little Black Dress" has helped to create the myth that the House of Chanel was built on the ruins of the House of Poiret. This is only partly correct, as revealed by several 1920's Poiret dresses in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. When directly contrasted with the Chanel evening dress from the Cooper Hewitt show, Poiret's "Arrow of Gold" (1925) more than holds its own in terms of lithe, sultry elegance.



Ed Voves, Photo (2017) Chanel's 1926 Evening Dress & Underslip; Poiret's "Arrow of Gold" Dress, 1925, Metropolitan Museum collection

Earlier, I commented how Poiret, in the pre-World War I era, created fashion designs which exuded a "life-enhancing experience that buyers brought home with the stunning garments they purchased at his shop." This is exactly what Chanel did in the 1920's. But there was an added bonus to Chanel's achievement - she was a stylish, savvy, independent woman who managed to make a success of her own bold endeavor.

To women in the 1920's, finally able to vote and with memories of their vital contributions to the war effort, Chanel was a major role model. Poiret might match Chanel's fashion designs, but how could he, a giant from an earlier epoch, respond to her appeal to the "new" woman of the Jazz Age?

The tragedy of Poiret's fall from grace was that he was wed to a beautiful, talented woman who could have helped him recreate the House of Poiret in the changed circumstances of the 1920's. In 1905, Poiret married Denise Boulet (1886-1982). It was a love match and, for many years, a successful marriage, though saddened by the death of two of their children during the war years.



 Denise Poiret wearing the Melodie Dress by Paul Poiret, 1913

Denise Poiret was her husband's best model. Poiret's fashions never looked better than when Denise wore them. She accompanied him on his tours throughout Europe and to the U.S. Audiences, especially Americans, were fascinated by the winning combination of Denise's devotion to her husband and her mysterious allure.

As far as the business-end of the House of Poiret, that was as far as it went. Poiret spent staggering amounts of revenue during the 1920's to reverse the dwindling fortunes of his business. At the same time, he ignored the public cachet and abundant talent of his wife. Instead, he treated Denise, in one case literally, like an exotic bird in a gilded cage.

Why did Poiret marginalize his wife, rather than give her a proactive role? Poiret admired Coco Chanel. He was the first to believe in Elsa Schiaparelli's fashion sense and mentored her during the early years of her career. Yet, he failed to capitalize on the many gifts of his own wife or give her scope for creative endeavor.

In 1928, Denise Poiret, worn-out by her husband's increasingly abusive behavior and, sad to relate, infidelity, sued for divorce. Fate, waiting in the wings, turned its full fury on Poiret. First bankruptcy and then everything fell apart. By the time he died in 1944, Poiret was destitute, living in his sister's apartment in Paris, a vanquished hero from a bygone age ...

... but not a forgotten genius. Elsa Schiaparelli, who paid for his burial expenses, called Poiret the "Leonardo of Fashion." So will you, after even a brief look at the wonderful T&H book, Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Feast.

***
Text: Copyright of Ed Voves, all rights reserved.

Introductory image:

Cover art of Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Feast by Marie-Sophie Carron de la Carrière, 2026. Courtesy of Thames & Hudson


Unknown photographer. Portrait of Paul Poiret, facing left, c. 1913. Library of Congress collection: LC-USZ62-100840 (b&w film copy neg.) photographic print.


Page spread from Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Feast, showing Poiret's  Mosaique Evening Gown, c. 1910. Collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris. Courtesy of Thames & Hudson


Page spread from Paul Poiret: Fashion is a Feast, showing Poiret's Flammes Shawl and Culotte-dress, 1911Collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris. Courtesy of Thames & Hudson


Paul Poiret (1879-1944) Marrekech Evening Gown, 1924. Collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris.


Paul Poiret (1879-1944) Evening Coat, 1910. Collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris.


Paul Poiret (1879-1944) Melodie Dress, 1912. Collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris.


Thérese Bonney (1894-1978) Paul Poiret and the model Rénee at his fashion house at 1 rond-point de Champs-Elysées, 1927. Gelatin silver bromide print. From the negative by l’ARCP. Paris. © Bibliotheque de la ville de Paris


Paul Poiret (1879-1944) Martinique Dress of 1922. Collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris.


Ed Voves, Photo (2017) Coco Chanel's Evening Dress and Underslip, 1926, from the Kent state University Libraries, Borowitz collection; Paul Poiret's "Arrow of Gold" Dress, from the Metropolitan Museum of Art collection.  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:%22Arrow_of_Gold%22_MET_DP145111.jpg


Unknown photographer. Denise Poiret wearing the Melodie Dress by Paul Poiret, 1913. Gelatin silver bromide print. Paris. Bibliotheque national de France. Prints and Photography department, inv. OA-702-FOL