Friday, November 8, 2019

Bonnard to Vuillard: Art of the Nabis at the Phillips Collection


Bonnard to Vuillard: the Intimate Poetry of Everyday Life  

 The Nabi Collection of Vicki and Roger Sant  

                                             
Phillips Collection, Washington D.C.
October 26, 2019 - January 26, 2020

Reviewed by Ed Voves
Original Photography by Anne Lloyd

The band of young French artists from the 1890's known as "Les Nabis" enjoy the unique distinction of having a group name which was not based on a derogatory remark by an art critic. Nor it originate in an over-intellectualized definition. "Nabis" means "Prophets" and it was a very appropriate name.  

The Nabi artists - Pierre Bonnard, Edouard Vuillard, Maurice Denis, Ker-Xavier Roussel, Félix Vallotton, Paul Ranson - launched new approaches to art during the last decade of the ninetheenth century. These Innovations heralded the advent of Modern Art.

The subject matter of the Nabis seems very much in keeping with that of Manet and the Impressionists. They too focused on the"heroism of modern life" and were enthralled with the unusual angles and cropping effects of Japanese prints. 

Unlike Manet, however, Bonnard, Vuillard and the other Nabis relinquished any lingering attachment to the École des Beaux Arts and the annual Salons. Despite the deceptive mildness of their subjects - mothers and children enjoying an afternoon in the garden, a colorfully-clad lady strolling past a bookshop window, a little girl carrying a basket of clean laundry - the Nabis were radicals in art and politics.



Félix Vallotton, Street Scene, 1895

It is fitting then, that the first exhibition devoted to the Nabis in many years should have recently opened at the Phillips Collection in Washington D.C. The Phillips Collection rightfully proclaims itself the first museum of Modern Art. It should also be noted that Duncan Phillips bought Nabi paintings, especially by Pierre Bonnard, as part of his wide-ranging collection mission.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) 
Gallery view of the Bonnard to Vuillard exhibition at the Phillips Collection

The Nabis are right at home in this wonderful D.C. museum. Indeed, the works of art on view in the exhibition have been pledged as a future gift to the Phillips.

These Nabi paintings, prints, screens, bronze sculptures, ceramics, stained glass and works of fabric art were collected by Vicki and Roger Sant, an art loving couple who were first introduced to "Les Nabis" during a Phillips-sponsored trip to France in 1993. Sadly, Vicki Sant died in 2018. This outstanding exhibition is truly a celebration of her love of art and devotion to sharing with fellow art lovers.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019)
 Paul Ranson's Planter, 1896 

While in Paris, the Sants visited the exhibition, Nabis, 1888-1900. This was the last major exhibition to study the Nabis with a detailed, wide-ranging focus. A more recent display of several of the Nabi artists was held in 2001 at the Art Institute of Chicago and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York but was limited to decorative painting by Bonnard, Vuillard, Denis, and Roussel. Compared with art shows devoted to the Impressionists, Nabi exhibitions are very rare indeed.

The Nabis were an eclectic group, held together by a willingness to experiment. There was no single theme uniting them. Maurice Denis (1870-1943), a fervent Christian, devoted many of his paintings to incidents from the Bible, especially during the later part of his career. The Swiss-born Félix Vallotton (1865-1925) was a left-wing political radical. Although Pierre Bonnard (1867-1947) would later gain fame as the "last Impressionist," he did not slavishly follow Monet, Pissarro and Sisley by portraying the natural world as a "here and now" phenomenon.



Maurice Denis, The Musicians, c. 1895

The Nabis were one in a line of break-away groups of rebellious artists, beginning with the Pre-Raphaelites in Britain during the 1850's and reaching across Europe to "Secession" movements, notably Vienna in 1897 and Berlin a year later. In 1903, after the dynamism of the Nabis had largely run its course, Vallotton and Vuillard were to join yet another coalition of revolutionary artists, the Société du Salon d'automne.

The diversity of style exhibited by each of the Nabi artists, however, made creating a group identity a difficult proposition. Unifying factors certainly existed. The Nabis as a group focused upon the details of domestic life. The allure of vibrant color, especially when arranged in intricate patterns, was a constant factor in much of their work. 



Pierre Bonnard, Afternoon in the Garden, 1891

The Nabis also were part of the late-nineteenth century Symbolist movement. Nabi painting, like Symbolist poetry, attempted to represent inner being, the spiritual reality of our lives which is often much closer to hand than we realize.

In 1896, the French philosopher, Henri Bergson, published a major work entitled Substance and Symbol. Bergson explored the interaction of sensations and actions with the ways that people remember and conceptualize the events of their lives. At the same time, the Nabis created works of art with an almost visceral "feel" of fabrics, architectural details and flowers which also serve as touchstones of human experience.

It was a Symbolist poet, Henri Cazalis, who first dubbed the artists "Les Nabis." For Cazalis, the Hebrew word for prophet captured the essence of his friends' devotion to a new artistic dispensation. As the Old Testament prophets had demolished the idols confronting the ancient Israelites, so the iconoclastic young artists would cast down the golden calf of Salon art.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019)
Édouard Vuillard's At La Divette, Cabourg: Annette Natanson, Lucy Hessel,                    and Miche Savoir at Breakfast,1913, reworked 1934

Bonnard, Vuillard: the Intimate Poetry of Everyday Life enables art lovers to appreciate the Nabis as a collective body of artists. Up to the moment of examining this superb exhibition at the Phillips, I was unable to do so.

In 2012, I visited the Jewish Museum in New York City, where I saw an excellent retrospective of the art of Édouard Vuillard (1868-1940). Over the years, I have also studied Bonnard's painting in one-man exhibits. In both cases, I was impressed with their technique, but puzzled by what seemed like an avoidance of contact with the dynamism of their times, particularly in the case of Vuillard



 Édouard Vuillard, Mother and Child, 1901

In his 1969 book, The Nabis and Their Period, Charles Chassé perceptively quoted from a contemporary account of Vuillard at work:

When Vuillard looked at a scene he did not half-close his eyes like so many painters who wished to preserve on their retina only the essential aspects of what they see; he ceaselessly registered the small details of things… He was enthusiastic about the kaleidoscope of the world, at the risk of repeating himself in an endless symphony like Ravel in his Bolero.

Chassé further noted that Vuillard became a successful portrait painter later in his career, yet retained his interest in the physical environment that was so notable of his Nabi years. He often painted his patrons with only the minimum of physical attributes necessary to establish their identity while depicting their surroundings in lavish detail.

"I don’t paint portraits,” Vuillard declared, “I paint people in their homes.”


    
                                                  Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019)                                                        Édouard Vuillard's Interior with Red Bed or The Bridal Chamber, 1893 

This amazing statement should be rephrased: Vuilliard - and his fellow Nabis - painted people in their environments - right now! Most people, even art lovers, live in the moment, at this point of time. 


For this reason, the Nabis took the bold step of disregarding vanishing-point perspective, the key innovation of the Renaissance that defined Western painting when compared to  the art of other cultures. 

Nabi paintings, by contrast, purposely dispensed with depth of vision. Everything is located "in your face," to borrow a modern, often disagreeable expression. Far from creating art in a hermit-like atmosphere, Bonnard, Denis, Vuilliard and the other Nabis created works which were very much in the "here and now."

Along with their accomplishments in painting, the Nabis were masters of printmaking, sculpture and ceramics. Bonnard showed a special aptitude in utilizing screens as an artistic medium.



Pierre Bonnard, Stork and Four Frogs, c. 1889

The influence of Japanese art is obvious in Bonnard's three-panel screen, The Stork and Four Frogs. The color-drenched background, the delicate handling of flowers and ferns, the Stork's almost Zen-like meditative state, underscore the vital role of Japonisme for the art of the Nabis.

There is an intriguing connection to another kind of "screen." This testifies to the Nabis awareness of the experiments leading to the invention of cinematography during the same years as their group was flourishing. Bonnard was friends with the Lumière brothers, Auguste and Louis, who invented the first true motion picture camera in 1895. This led to the historic showing of the first film on December 28, 1895 to an audience in Paris. 
                                                                                                                                                                   
               
Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019)
Detail of Pierre Bonnard's Stork and Four Frogs, c. 1889

Bonnard's Stork and the Four Frogs, based on a fable by Jean de la Fontaine, was painted six years earlier in 1889. There is, thus, no direct co-relation with the Lumière brothers' film premiere. Rather, there is a shared sense of fascination with movement. Bonnard depicts the frogs, not as four individuals, but rather as single animal engaged in a four-sequenced act of leaping.

In 1896, Bonnard created a painted screen which he used as the basis for an impressive, five-color lithograph. It was entitled Nannies’ Promenade, Frieze of Carriages. The four frames of the screen appear to show a horse-drawn cab in motion. The effect is similar to the effect of closely examining a roll of the Lumiere brothers’ pioneering film, Workers Leaving the Lumière Factory.



                                                   Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019)                                             Pierre Bonnard's Nannies’ Promenade, Frieze of Carriages, c. 1889

Appearances are deceiving. Bonnard shows a cab stand, not a moving cab. The vehicles are parked and the drivers are waiting for customers. Movement there is, however, taking place in the foreground – the zone of action in almost all Nabi works of art. A mother and her bonnet-wearing daughter walk-along and two boys scamper past them rolling their hoops.

Nannies' Promenade or Frieze of Carriages evokes the tremendous vitality of urban life, just as the Lumiere brothers’ films did. Without being directly related to early cinematography, this magnificent work by Bonnard joined in the dynamic transition from static to motion picture art which occurred during the 1890’s.

Every art group, even the supremely individualistic Nabis, will have at least one "odd man out." For the Nabis, this was Ker-Xavier Roussel (1867-1944). Though his talent was never in doubt, Roussel's sense of timing often missed a beat. Early in the Nabi years, his works were largely dark in color tones, while later in his career he integrated mythological elements into his landscapes just a Symbolism and allegory were going out of style.

Roussel achieved perfect harmony with his design for the stained glass window which occupies a central place in the Phillips exhibition. 



                                               Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019)                                          Gallery view of the Bonnard to Vuillard exhibition, 
     Ker-Xavier Roussel's The Garden, center 

Roussel designed the cartoon for The Garden in 1895, as part of a commission from the German-born art dealer, Siegfried Bing. Other members of the Nabi group, including Vuilliard and Bonnard, contributed cartoons for the series. Roussel's window, executed by the Tiffany Company, is one of the few to survive from Bing's ill-fated effort to promote the Nabis. Roussel achieved near perfection with this brilliant work, but sadly, French art patrons were unimpressed.


Ker-Xavier Roussel, The Garden, (design), 1894, created by Tiffany Co., 1895

Thanks to the brilliant collecting of Vicki and Roger Sant, the Nabis can be appreciated as individual artists of their era and as leaders of the vanguard of Modernism. The Phillips exhibition is, thus, key to helping us understand the revolution in the visual arts during the last years of the nineteenth century and the first decade of the twentieth.

Yet, bold though they were, the Nabis never broke-ranks with that defining expression of French culture: vive la différence!

Look for a moment at Bonnard’s 1896 sketch, The Little Laundry Girl. Open your eyes wide as Vuilliard did while painting. 

This exquisite, lively drawing shows the human spirit enduring and soaring,                        regardless of the circumstances of life. Lurching under the burden of her heavy basket of laundry, the young girl propels herself onward with determination, brio and a sense of style that is particularly Parisian.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019)
Detail of Pierre Bonnard's,The Little Laundry Girl, 1896

There is no holding her back, La Petite Blanchisseuse, no keeping her down. She will find her own way forward and do it her way.

The Nabis did the same with their art. Whatever medium they chose for their work, the primacy of each Nabi artist's unique approach to art was paramount. Charles Chassé writes:

To the Nabis a picture had merit only when it possessed “style", that is to say when the artist had succeeded in changing the shape of the objects he was looking at and imposing on them contours or a color that expressed his own personality.

This is what we see displayed to such magnificent effect in the Phillips Collection exhibition, Bonnard to Vuilliard, the Intimate Poetry of Everyday Life.

Vive la différence!

***
Text: Copyright of Ed Voves, all rights reserved. Original photography by Anne Lloyd, all rights reserved.
Images courtesy of the Phillips Collection, Washington D.C.

Introductory Image:
Félix Vallotton (Swiss, 1865-1925) Passerby (Le Passante), 1897. Oil on cardboard: 
7 7/8 x 11 in. The Phillips Collection, Promised gift of Vicki and Roger Sant.

Félix Vallotton (Swiss, 1865-1925) Scène de rue (Street Scene), 1895, Oil on cardboard,  10 1/4 x 13 3/8 in., The Phillips Collection, promised gift of Vicki and Roger Sant.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Gallery view of the Bonnard to Vuillard exhibition at the Phillips Collection.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019)  Paul Ranson's Planter, 1896. 

Maurice Denis, (French, 1870-1943) The Musicians, c. 1895. Oil on cardboard:

9 5/8 x 13 5/8 in. The Phillips Collection, Promised gift of Vicki and Roger Sant.

Pierre Bonnard (French,1867-1947) Afternoon in the Garden (Après-midi au jardin),1891. Oil and pen and ink on canvas: 14 3/4 x 17 3/4 in. The Phillips Collection, Promised gift of Vicki and Roger Sant.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Édouard Vuillard's At La Divette, Cabourg: Annette Natanson, Lucy Hessel, and Miche Savoir at Breakfast,1913, reworked 1934.

Édouard Vuillard (French, 1868-1940) Mother and Child (Mère et enfant), 1901, Oil on cardboard, mounted on cradled panel, 20 1/8 x 19 3/4 in., The Phillips Collection, promised gift of Vicki and Roger Sant. 

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Édouard Vuillard's Interior with Red Bed or The Bridal Chamber, 1893.

Pierre Bonnard  (French,1867-1947) The Stork and Four Frogs (Le marabout et les quatre grenouilles), 1889, Three-panel screen; distemper on canvas, 62 3/4 x 21 1/2 in., The Phillips Collection, promised gift of Vicki and Roger Sant.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Detail of Pierre Bonnard's The Stork and Four Frogs, 1889.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Pierre Bonnard's Nannies’ Promenade, Frieze of Carriages, c. 1889.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Gallery view of the Bonnard to Vuillard exhibition, Ker-Xavier Roussel's The Garden, center.

Ker-Xavier Roussel (French 1867-1944) The Garden (Le Jardin),1894 (executed by Tiffany & Co. in 1895). Stained glass: 48 7/8 x 36 5/8 in. The Phillips Collection, Promised gift of Vicki and Roger Sant.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Detail of Pierre Bonnard's The Little Laundry Girl, 1896.

Monday, October 28, 2019

Paris, Capital of Fashion at the Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City


Paris, Capital of Fashion


Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology   
September 6, 2019 - January 


Reviewed by Ed Voves 
Original Photography by Anne Lloyd
  
The word "fashion" connotes change.  This is true for clothing - and for just about everything else. "New Look" was a great slogan for the post-World War II revolution in style. But the elegance of a robe à la française from the 1700's or the stylish simplicity of a Chanel "little black dress" can re-emerge in new fashion designs at any time. Creativity in haute couture is timeless yet radical, visionary while also being nostalgic.

“Might it be possible to awaken the clothes of long-gone eras and infuse them with the spirit of today?” 

Nicolas Ghesquière raised that issue with his Spring/Summer 2018 collection for Louis Vuitton. Paris, Capital of Fashion, a major exhibition at the Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, seconds the motion.

Ghesquière replied to his own question with an eclectic mix of brocade frock coats, straight out of the Ancien Regime, matched with silk running shorts. If the result bordered more on children's dress-up than serious fashion, the answer is still yes!

Paris, Capital of Fashion is a brilliantly orchestrated exhibition, displaying over one hundred stunning dresses and accessories, an homage to the court of Versailles and a large-format photo of Garment District workers "schelepping" racks of dresses to the show room in 1955.


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) 
Red Taffeta Evening Gown by Jacques Fath (ca.1953) and Photo by Al Ravenna, 
N.Y. World Telegram and Sun, of garment district workers in New York City,1955

Valerie Steele, the director and chief curator of the Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology, organized Paris, Capital of Fashion in general chronological order. There are, however, numerous compare/contrast displays complementing the basic timeline. A good example of this is the juxtaposition of John Galliano's embroidered faille dress with underskirt and metal front piece, 2000-2001, posed next to an authentic robe à la française, dated 1755-1760.


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Robe à la française, (left) and
 John Galliano’s Marie Antoinette Dress, 2000-2001

Rather menacingly, Galliano placed two portraits of Marie Antoinette on the billowing skirts of the dress he designed, one showing her as the shepherdess of the Trianon while on the other side she wears the bonnet rouge of the Revolutionary tribunal who sentenced her to death in 1793.

Galliano's pointed reference to Marie Antoinette's encounter with Madame Guillotine is not an isolated vignette in the exhibition. As we will discuss, Paris, Capital of Fashion offers serious reflection on the interaction of clothing styles and the historical eras in which they were made and worn.

Such revealing insights in no way inhibit our appreciation of this marvelous, indeed radiant, display of some of the most beautiful dresses ever made. Whether you are a scholar of clothing design, a "fashionista" or an eclectic lover of art exhibitions, Paris, Capital of Fashion is a must-see exhibit and one which will be remembered for a very long time.



Anne Lloyld, Photo (2019) Gallery view of Paris, Capital of Fashion,    

With so much to see and admire, this is an exhibition which needs a visually stunning focus point - and it has one! A spectacular "runway" like display features sensational twentieth century haute couture under the heading: Fashion, Art, Luxury.

Beginning at left with a sumptuous red cape by Coco Channel (1927), the fashion show proceeds with a blue embroidered silk shantung dress by Christian Dior (1952), “Soirée de Paris” black silk velvet dress with replica silk satin sash by Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior (1955), Jean Paul Gaultier's black silk crepe dress and gold lamé overdress with paniers (1998), Christian Dior, “Mystère de New York” black haute couture chiffon over silk faille dress (1955), Balmain's “Chateau Haut Brion” red silk satin dress (1955-1956) and Agnès-Drecoll's yellow silk satin and rhinestone evening dress (ca.1934).

Had Paris, Capital of Fashion been limited merely to this central gallery, it would have still been a outstanding exhibition. Such is the "show-stopper" quality of each of these dresses. The Chanel cape and the shimmering Agnès-Drecoll evening dress vividly bring to life the elegant sensuality of Paris between the World Wars.


Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, Red Doubled Silk Crepe de Chine Evening Cape,1927
Agnes-Drecoll, Yellow Silk Satin and Rhinestone Evening Dress, ca.1934

While our eyes may linger on these superlative examples of haute couture, some of the less striking dresses and men's suits provide fascinating insights into how the "times" influenced the clothes people wore. The fashion trend-setters in Revolutionary France following the years of terror, 1793-95, wore such bizarre, outlandish attire that they were deemed incredible - incroyable - if they were men, and merveleuse if they were women. Following the French Revolution and the plumes, gold braid and gore of the Napoleonic Wars, fashion assumed a more much sensible and quietly elegant style. 

This trend is reflected in a printed linen dress, c. 1837, the era of Charlotte Brontë in literature. This beautiful dress is also noteworthy for its printed motif. Almost all clothing, for rich and poor, continued to be created by hand in small shops during the first decades of the nineteenth century. But factory-printed fabric was already appearing, pointing to the divide later in the century between mass-produced "reach-me-down" clothes for the working class and haute couture (which means higher sewing) for the more well-to-do.

It was a Victorian Englishman, Frederick Charles Worth (1825-1895), who really made Paris the global fashion capital it remains to this day. Worth created the basic designs of dresses, using a well-integrated force of skilled workers to do the sewing and lavish decoration. This enabled prices to be kept within range of the newly prosperous middle class of France during the Second Empire, 1852-1870, and affluent Americans following the end of the U.S. Civil War in 1865. 

Taking a tour of Europe required a mandatory visit to Paris. Worth was particularly skillful in encouraging American clients to return home with at least one "Worth" like this gorgeous blue day dress, dating to 1865-1866.


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) 
House of Worth Blue Ribbed Silk Ball Gown, 1866-67

The 1920's saw another shift in style, with a more relaxed, comfortable feel in French women's attire. Gone were the restrictive "hobble" skirts and frumpy dresses of the World War I years. On view is a stylish, free-flowing day dress from the House of Chanel, in the same daring red of the 1927 Chanel cape, and an ensemble of high-end, factory-made leisure attire, just the right thing to wear to the 1928 Olympic Games in Paris.



Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) French Leisure Fashion for Women,1920’s

Paris, Capital of Fashion pays a great deal of well-deserved attention to Christian Dior (1905-1957). Dior revived the French fashion industry during the 1950's with the New Look in the same way that General, later President, Charles de Gaulle helped France regain a measure of its political power following the years of World War II defeat and privation. 


Christian Dior, Haute Couture Gold, Printed Silk Gauze Two-piece Dress, 1951

Dior's lavish use of fabric, seen in the dress above, recalled the Second Empire dress of the House of Worth. This shimmering, silk gauze two-piece dress, was worn by the celebrated actress Lauren Bacall, who presented it to the FIT.

Dior's influence was vast, especially with his idea of themed-fashion collections. Sadly, he died from a heart attack at the height of his powers in 1957.

The French have not maintained their commanding position as the arbiters of fashion without competition. The FIT exhibition pays a detailed look at the fabled 1973 "Battle of Versailles." Five American designers, Bill Blass, Stephen Burrows. Oscar de la Renta, Halston and Anne Klein, took-on the best couturiers of France, including Yves Saint Laurent, and won.


Stephen Burrows, Rayon Jersey Color Blocked Evening Dress, 1973

This surprising defeat did not curtail France's dominant position. Rather, it revitalized the realm of haute couture, with the eyes of the world still focused on Paris.

The FIT exhibition is epic in scope, though never exhausting.


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) 
Display of Women’s Hats and Men’s Suits at the Paris, Capital of Fashion exhibit 

Hats, shoes, accessories are all examined in loving detail and due credit is given to French designers who have attempted to compete with the longstanding British domination of men's fashion.


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019)
Stephen Jones (For Christian Dior), Top Hat, 2000

A principal reason why Paris, Capital of Fashion is such a sustained delight is the thoughtful and beautifully written wall texts and display captions. Valerie Steele is a superb literary stylist, making the exhibition an adventure for the mind. The following excerpt is indicative of Steele's command of words, as well as images:

The figure of the Parisienne had long been an icon of fashionable and seductive femininity, but by the later 19th century Paris itself was increasingly perceived as a feminized and sexualized city, a dream world of pleasure, in contrast to cities like London and New York, which seemed masculine and work-oriented. In her song “That’s Paris,” Mistinguette characterizes the city as a woman, “a blonde” and “queen of the world.”

As noted above, the exhibition does not shy away from controversy.


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019)
 Paris, Capital of Fashion display, dealing with Original and Copied Fashion Designs

Among the hard-hitting topics examined are the piracy of French designs by foreign clothing manufacturers, including Americans, and the collaboration of French fashion houses and companies with the Nazis during the German occupation of France,1940-1944. This was not entirely a craven or self-serving act by top designers for they saved over 20,000 French women, workers in the fashion industry, from being deported as laborers for the Third Reich.


Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019)
Gallery view of the Paris, Capital of Fashion exhibition at The Museum at FIT

A banquet for the eye and food-for-thought to stimulate the intellect, the FIT exhibition is truly one of the outstanding art events of 2019. Rather than pile on further "superlatives" - however well-deserved - it is more appropriate to conclude this review with another quote from the exhibition wall texts:


In her Lettres Parisiennes (1844), Madame de Girardin referred to Paris as “this city of perfected elegance and marvelous luxury.”

Perfected elegance! True for Paris. True for Paris, Capital of Fashion at the Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology.

***
Text: Copyright of Ed Voves. Original Photos: Anne Lloyd. All rights reserved                      Images courtesy of the Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City. 

Introductory Image:
Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Gallery views of the Paris, Capital of Fashion exhibition, showing dresses by Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior,“Soirée de Paris” black silk velvet haute couture (1955) and Jean Paul Gaultier, Haute couture ensemble, black silk crepe dress and gold lamé overdress with paniers (1998).

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Gallery view of Paris, Capital of Fashion, showing a Red Taffeta Evening Gown by Jacques Fath (ca. 1953) and Photo by Al Ravenna, N.Y. World Telegram and Sun, of garment district workers in New York City (1955). Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Gallery view of Paris, Capital of Fashion, showing a Robe à la française, 1755-1760, and John Galliano’s Marie Antoinette Dress, 2000-2001.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Gallery view of Paris, Capital of Fashion, showing the Central Gallery Display of Women’s Haute Couture during the Twentieth Century.

Gabrielle Chanel, Red Doubled Silk Crepe de Chine Evening Cape, 1927, France. The Museum at FIT, 96.69.15.

Agnes-Drecoll, Yellow Silk Satin and Rhinestone Evening Dress, circa 1934, France. Collection of Newark Museum, Gift of Mrs. Wells P. Eagleton, 1940. IL2019.2.2.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Gallery view of Paris, Capital of Fashion, showing a Worth & & Bobergh Blue Ribbed Silk Ball Gown, 1866-67, France. Lent by The Museum of the City of New York. Gift of Richard H.L. Sexton and Eric H.L. Sexton, 1962

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Gallery view of Paris, Capital of Fashion, showing French Leisure Fashion for Women,1920’s.

Christian Dior, Haute Couture Gold, Printed Silk Gauze Two-piece Dress, Spring 1951, France. The Museum at FIT, 68.143.20. Gift of Lauren Bacall

Stephen Burrows, Rayon Jersey Color Blocked Evening Dress, 1973, USA. The Museum at FIT, 2000.97.1

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Gallery view of Paris, Capital of Fashion, showing a Display of Women’s Hats and Men’s Suits.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019)  Stephen Jones (For Christian Dior), Top Hat, fall 2000. (Museum at FIT collection, 2003.70.1.)

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Exhibit Display in Paris, Capital of Fashion, dealing with Original and Copied Fashion Designs.

Anne Lloyd, Photo (2019) Gallery view of the Paris, Capital of Fashion exhibition at The Museum at FIT.



Monday, October 14, 2019

Art Eyewitness Book Review: Impressionist & Post-Impressionist Drawings by Christopher Lloyd & Impressionism by Ralph Skea



Impressionist & Post-Impressionist Drawings
by Christopher Lloyd
Thames & Hudson /$60/288 pages


Impressionism
by Ralph Skea
Thames & Hudson-Art Essentials /$16.95/176 pages



Reviewed by Ed Voves 

When the Museum of Modern Art in New York City announced that it would be shutting its doors from mid-June to late October 2019 for renovations and a reconfiguration of its iconic collection, I resolved to journey to NYC before the museum closed

A lot of fellow art lovers had the same idea. MOMA was crowded almost beyond capacity on the day I visited, June 13. Certain galleries, however, were even more packed with patrons than others. 

It came as no surprise that the paintings commanding such elbow-to-elbow attention were works by the 19th century Impressionists and the Post-Impressionists, the "old masters" of  modern art.


Ed Voves, Photo (2019) 
 Gallery view of the Museum of Modern Art's Monet Gallery.

Impressionism and Post-Impressionism (also called Neo-Impressionism) command scholarly respect, as well.  Book store shelves are packed with volumes offering new insights into the painters who established "the heroism of modern life" as a valid theme in the visual arts. Two new books from Thames & Hudson have just been published, Impressionist & Post-Impressionist Drawings by Christopher Lloyd and Impressionism by Ralph Skea. Each is an outstanding addition to the literature of Impressionism. 

Why the continuing appeal of Monet, Renoir and Seurat? It was not always so. When MOMA first opened its doors in 1929, interest in the founding generation of modern art was at a low ebb. 


Ed Voves, Photo (2019) Gallery view of the Museum of Modern Art, 
showing patrons with Vincent van Gogh's The Starry Night.

It was not until the 1950's that the popularity of the Impressionists began to thrive. The publication in 1946 of The History of Impressionism by John Rewald, still the "gold standard" book on the subject, was key to this revival. Hollywood "bio-pics" of Henri Toulouse-Lautrec (Moulin Rouge, 1952) and Vincent van Gogh (Lust for Life, 1956) also provided a huge impetus for reawakening interest in La Belle Époque.


Christopher Lloyd's Impressionist & Post-Impressionist Drawings is a particularly impressive
book. From the standpoint of the research and analysis which the author devoted to this topic and the superlative quality of the narrative, this is a book to rival - and complement - Rewald's History of Impressionism. 

In writing about the Impressionist and Post-Impressionists,  Lloyd does not limit himself to  considering preparatory sketches and exhibition-quality pastels. Astute commentary on the working technique of these artists is shared in short, masterful biographical portraits. 


Mary Cassatt, Mother Combing Her Child's Hair, 1901

These brief character studies are models of psychological insight. Throughout the book, Lloyd uses a few, well-chosen words to create an image or prove a point which other books on Impressionism could not match in an entire chapter.

Writing about Édouard Manet, whose most controversial works were often re-workings of classic artistic themes, Lloyd writes, "Manet used the past as a Trojan horse to establish the primacy of modernism."


Edgar Degas, Dancer Shown in Position Facing Three-Quarters Front, c. 1872

Lloyd was for many years the curator in charge of the Queen's Pictures for the Royal Collection. He is also a specialist on the career of Edgar Degas and his 2014 book, Degas: Drawings and Pastels is the definitive work on the most accomplished draftsman of all the Impressionists. His chapter on Degas is a high point of his new book, as well. Here is a more extended sample of Lloyd's marvelous prose:

Degas's art ... is based on a penetrating and intelligent investigation of society comparable with the novels of contemporary naturalist writers such as Emile Zola and Guy de Maupassant. A keen observer of ballet dancers, cabaret performers, jockeys, milliners, laundresses, ironers and prostitutes, Degas became respectful of the skills of others and the demands made upon them, to the extent that in the wider sense the challenges they faced can be interpreted as a metaphor for the struggles he had in perfecting his own art. In his depiction of everyday modern life, therefore, Degas sought out the heroic amid the mundane and the universal amid the incidental.

Here we see art history raised to a transcendental plain of human - and humane - commentary. 

In purely artistic terms, Lloyd shows that the famous Impressionist technique of painting directly from nature was only one of the "arrows" in their quiver. Almost all of the Impressionists and Post-Impressionists utilized preparatory drawings from time-to-time, as we can see in this sketch by Renoir for The Dance in the Country (1883).


Pierre Auguste Renoir, Study for The Dance in the Country, 1883

Lloyd, of course, is not alone in pointing out that the Impressionists did not always paint sur le motif. This year's premier Impressionist exhibition, The Impressionist's Eye at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, underscored the often methodical attention devoted to drawing. Lloyd, however goes one step further by including the Italian-born artist, Federico Zandomeneghi (1841-1917) as one of the Impressionist artists skillful in drawing. As the illustrations of his work displayed in the book testify, Zandomeneghi was a maestro with pastel chalk.


Federico Zandomeneghi, Waking Up, 1895

Zandomeneghi was a latecomer to Impressionism, exhibiting at the 1880 Salon. Before this, he was a member of the Macchiaioli art circle, based in Florence. "Macchia" means splash, used in reference to their brush technique, which was similar to that of their French contemporaries.   

The Macchiaioli, in fact, were a parallel avant-garde movement astonishingly akin to the Impressionists. Lloyd is right on target when he notes that Zandomeneghi had only to leave the Macchiaioli's meeting place in Florence for its Impressionist counterpart, "on coming to Paris Zandomeneghi was exchanging the Caffe Michelangioli for the Cafe de la Nouvelle-Athenes on the Place Pigalle..."

Such reflections raise the rather subversive question of why there are so many exhibitions devoted to the Impressionists and so few to the Macchiaioli. According to my research, the last major exhibit of Macchiaioli paintings in the English-speaking world was held in 1986 at the art museums of UCLA and Harvard. Until this omission is corrected, we at least have Lloyd's spirited chapter on Zandomeneghi to remind us of the Macchiaioli.

Impressionism was never limited to one nation, though of course, France and French painters had the starring role in the crucial early years. Ralph Skea, in the second of the books under review, emphasizes the international character of Impressionism in his splendid volume of Thames & Hudson's Art Essentials series. 


Skea,an artist himself, pays special attention to the American and Australian Impressionist painters, some of whom required quite a bit of convincing before joining the movement.
Examining the career of J. Alden Weir (1852-1919), Skea notes that Weir encountered Impressionist paintings while studying in France, finding them "to be unprofessional, lacking in correct drawing and composition."

After returning to the United States, Weir experienced a change of heart. He joined John Henry Twachtman (1853-1902) and Theodore Robinson (1852-1896) at the Cos Cob art colony in New England. Weir's The Red Bridge (1895) is one of the greatest of American Impressionist paintings. 


John Singer Sargent, An Out-of-Doors Study, 1889

American Impressionism had special challenges which kept it from achieving the special status it deserved. Two of its most gifted practitioners, Twachtman and Robinson, died tragically young. The most gifted American artist of the era, John Singer Sargent, painted an wide-ranging body of Impressionist works, in oil and watercolor, but became side-tracked by his grandiose mural series for the Boston Public Library. By the time the American - and Australian - Impressionists were hitting their stride, new developments in art had pushed Impressionism away from the vanguard of Modernism.

Skea skillfully incorporates this American episode within the overall saga of Impressionism, all within 176 pages. He recounts the rise and enduring appeal of the Impressionism in an engaging, thoughtful way which will appeal to readers new to the Impressionist's story and rewarding to art lovers who have read Rewald's classic account.

Skea's Impressionism is remarkable both for its concision and the way that unfamiliar artists or little known facts are introduced without affecting the thrust of the narrative. For instance, Skea notes that one of the lesser-known members of the movement, Armand Guillaumin, was one of the first to "to include factory chimneys as a major feature, showing the visual impact of recent industrialization."



Armand Guillaumin, Sunset at Ivry, 1873

Skea makes a bold comparison between Guillaumin's Sunset at Ivry with another Impressionist painting which had been displayed at the first Impressionist Salon in 1874. This was none other than Monet's signature work which was to give the movement its name: Impression: Sunrise.  

Skea writes:
Guillaumin's dramatic representation of a sunset is in many ways a companion picture to Monet's more famous and more abbreviated "impression" of a sunrise. Both images brought to the exhibition the Impressionist commitment to painting light by means of heightened colour effects.



Claude Monet, Impression: Sunrise, 1872

Taken together, Impressionist & Post-Impressionist Drawings by Christopher Lloyd and Impressionism by Ralph Skea prove their points. The Impressionists did indeed make carefully composed drawings as part of their oeuvre. Despite the harsh, derisive criticism hurled at them during the early years of the movement, the Impressionists' novel handling of light and their depiction of social themes changed the trajectory of art forever.

How like the sunrises and sunsets they painted are the pictures of Monet and his colleagues! One never fails to see the Sun break through the mists of dawn or sink below the horizon in a veil of fading glory without feeling a sense of awe, a renewed belief that the living spirit of the cosmos will triumph and endure. So too, for the art of the Impressionists.

***
Text: Copyright of Ed Voves, all rights reserved                                                                                           
Book cover images courtesy of Thames & Hudson 

Introductory Image:
Hilaire-Germain-Edgar Degas, (French, 1834-1917) A Woman Seated beside a Vase of Flowers, 1865. Oil on canvas: 29 x 36 1/2 in. (73.7 x 92.7 cm) Metropolitan Museum of Art. H. O. Havemeyer Collection, Bequest of Mrs. H. O. Havemeyer, 1929 # 29.100.128

Ed Voves, Photo (2019) Gallery view of the Museum of Modern Art's Monet Gallery. 

Ed Voves, Photo (2019) Gallery view of the Museum of Modern Art, showing patrons with Vincent van Gogh's The Starry Night.

Mary Cassatt (American, 1844-1926) Mother Combing Her Child's Hair, c. 1901. Pastel on gray paper: 25 1/4 x 31 5/8 in. (64.1 x 80.3 cm). Brooklyn Museum, Bequest of Mary T. Cockcroft, 46.102

Hilaire-Germain-Edgar Degas, (French, 1834-1917) A Ballet Dancer in Position Facing Three-Quarters Front, c. 1872. Pencil and black chalk, heightened with white chalk on pink wove paper: 41 x 27.6 cm (16 1/8 x 10 7/8 in.)  Harvard Art Museums, Fogg Art Museum. # 1965.263

Pierre Auguste Renoir (French, 1841-1919) Study for The Dance in the Country, 1883.  Brush and brown, blue, and black wash over black chalk or graphite: 49.5 x 30.5 cm (19 1/2 x 12 in.) Yale University Art Museum. Bequest of Edith Malvina K. Wetmore.  #1966.80.25

Federico Zandomeneghi (Italian, 1841-1917) Waking Up,1895. Pastel mounted on board: 60 x 72 cm. (23 5/8  x 28 3/8 in.) Palazzo dei Te, Mantua.

John Singer Sargent  (American, 1856-1925) An Out-of-Doors Study, 1889. Oil on canvas, frame: 41 1/2 x 48 5/8 x 6 in. (105.4 x 123.5 x 15.2 cm). Brooklyn Museum, Museum Collection Fund, 20.640

Armand Guillaumin (French, 1841-1927) Sunset at Ivry, 1873. Oil on canvas: 81 cm. x 65 cm. (25 1/2 x 32 in.) Musée d'Orsay, Paris.

Claude Monet (French, 1840-1926) Impression: Sunrise, 1872. Oil on canvas: 48 x 63 cm. (19 x 25 in.) The Musée Marmottan, Paris.